Taiwan Today

A heavy mist hangs over the multiple peaks of Kuanyin Mountain. A chilly wind from the dark, late-winter sea sweeps sand sheets into random patterns of perfection on a beach, far below. Fishing boats have returned with the morning catch and now tug at their moorings while their cargoes are taken off to market. Water trickles down over rice paddy plateaus, and farmers tend their plots on the green slopes of the mountainside. The rich farmlands and bountiful seas around Pali, on the northwest coast of Taiwan at the mouth of the Tamsui River, have attracted settlers from the mainland since the earliest times. Today, with the influences of modernity becoming increasingly evident in Pali, the passing of centuries still holds tightly only to that independent, hard working spirit and deeply rooted tradition that originally caused the transformation of Kuanyin Mountain's surroundings into a flourishing community. Early immigrants from the mainland had heard attractive tales about the relatively unpopulated island across the Taiwan Strait—rich farmland along the coastal plains, an abundance of fresh water and game, and rich, virgin fishing grounds. Many of the settlers who came to the northern part of Taiwan were landed in the area of the Tamsui River estuary. Finding abundant resources and great natural beauty right on hand, they founded the villages of Tamsui and Pali on either side of the river. Soon, a large area was under cultivation and fishing boats were spread over the coastal seas. As Pali grew and prospered, it began to trade rice and other foodstuffs with the mainland, thus increasing the importance of its port. When Dutch forces won control of the area in 1642, Dutch administrators levied heavy taxes and backed active cultural proselytising. Dutch rule was, accordingly, bitterly resented and resisted. In the early 1660s, the residents of the Pali area joined in support of the Ming Imperial troops of General Cheng Cheng-kung (Koxinga), who drive out the Dutch. The recapture of Taiwan by Cheng Cheng-kung marked the beginning of new development for the island, precipitated by an influx of immigrants from Kwangtung and Fukien Provinces, including a large number of former Ming literati from the mainland who feared oppression from the new Ching Dynasty. Taiwan's first "Land to the Tiller" program, a land reform plan that would many years later serve as a model for Dr. Sun Yat-sen, was instituted not only to distribute tillable lands more fairly, but also to increase the amount of cultivated land. The better life sought by the Chinese settlers at Pali seemed to be at hand for everyone. But the rise of the Ching Dynasty saw the people of Taiwan once again subjected to oppressive administration and greedy officials. Still, the energy of the settlers resulted in ever increasing trade, earning the island a greater prosperity. During this period, both Pali and Tamsui were busy ports. In 1763, a major flood destroyed Pali's harbor facilities as well as a large part of the riverside village, and the brunt of the shipping activity moved for­ ever to Tamsui. Pali was left to continue on its own as a farming and fishing community. The increasing importance of Taiwan finally earned it the status of a Chinese province in 1885. Its first governor, Liu Ming-chuan, was a farsighted and progressive leader who envisioned Taiwan as a strong and modern community with adequate roads, railways, communications, schools, and industry within the context of traditional Chinese culture. The capital was moved from Tainan to Taipei, and a large modernization stressing reform projects was undertaken to link small fishing and farming communities together. This period of growth and progress was cut short by the Japanese occupation in 1895. Taiwan was now a colony. Although efforts at modernization did continue during the Japanese period, they were directed towards Japan's own ends rather than the good of the Chinese people. The Japanese treated the people harshly and raised to power a landlord class that would cooperate with their colonial administration. The oppressive colonial rule met strong resistance from the people of Taiwan, one of whom became an inspiring freedom fighter—Liao Tien-ting is still a hero today. Born in Taichung in 1883 to a poor family, he spent his early years as a cowherd. During the Japanese occupation, he went to Taipei where he supported himself as a thief, later becoming a favorite among the poor as a Robin Hood type figure, a fighter for freedom and justice and a benefactor of those in need. Liao, at 27, was finally apprehended by the Japanese; he was executed in Pali. Today, at the site of Liao Tien­-ting's grave, there are a temple and small park in his name which attract people from all over the island, come to pay their respects to this native hero. The temple itself is unique, built in the northern Chinese style. Most traditional Taiwan architecture is in the southern style, with swallowtail roofs and intricate rooftop carvings. On weekends, the adjoining park is crowded with visitors strolling about and vendors selling everything from peanuts to teapots. Pali offers many small temples, including a three-centuries-old temple dedicated to Matsu, patron of mariners. The 140-year-old Tien Ho Temple stands on the main street of Pali, dominating its surroundings with graceful swallow-tail roofs topped with writh­ing green dragons. Dedicated to Sheng­-mu, a Buddhist goddess of fertility, it is presently undergoing repairs. To the rear of the main structure, one can observe a solitary craftsman carving statues with the same patient concern as his forefathers. The skills of the temple artists have been passed down through the generations, maintaining an unbroken linkage with an ancient cultural heritage. The care and craftsmanship employed in temple renovation is to be seen also in shipbuilding yards in Pali. The classical hulls of Chinese sailing junks are constructed here in a small shipyard on the riverbank. This old design has weathered tests of time, carrying Chinese explorers of old to the shores of Africa, as well as transporting Taiwan's pioneer settlers across the Strait from Fukien. Its sturdy seaworthiness and large cargo capacity are the special draws for fishermen. Today, motorpowered junks can be seen slipping over the horizon on months-long journeys to harvest the wealth of distant seas. Not far from the yard building the traditional junks, another shipyard builds sleek, modern sailing yachts—graceful boats that can be seen gliding over the waters around Pali during the summer months, as well as in overseas yacht harbors. Yet, despite Pali's traditionally strong ties with the sea, it remains princi­pally an agrarian community. The hopes of the early settlers, which were embo­died in Cheng Cheng-kung's "Land to the Tiller" program, have been re­-realized in modern times via the comprehensive land reform carried out by the late President Chiang Kai-shek. The present prosperity of Pali's farmers reflects the entire island's impressive agricultural success, the backbone of its burgeoning industrial economy. The ample amounts of rain and sunshine and the rich soil of Pali make it an auspicious locale for farming, which is carried out year-round in the area's sub­tropical climate. Kuanyin Mountain's foothills are terraced with rice paddies irrigated by rain waters flowing from the mountain. Here, two rice harvests per year are supplemented by the year-round production of sweet potatoes. But Pali is particularly famous for its quality peanuts—also two harvests per year. Growth and progress have changed the face of Pali significantly over the last few decades. Although it remains a peaceful country town, it offers modern amenities and shows heavy influences from nearby metropolitan Taipei. The recently constructed Kuantu Bridge, which efficiently links Pali with Tamsui and other towns, also provides a faster, more direct route to Taipei, ending Pali's past isolation from the booming growth to the south. Lin Jin-shui, a 67-year-old farmer and lifetime resident of Pali, reflected, "Not long ago, Pali was very small and quiet. Now there are many new roads, new buildings, and more people. The bridge has made Pali too busy." Nevertheless, Pali's farming-fishing atmosphere prevails. The sight of the fishermen returning with the morning catch in the familiar junk hulls, and of farmers plowing their fields in the forefront of Kuanyin Mountain, asserts a pervading, peaceful and, surely, pleasant feeling. Pali's Sacred Heart High School, originally located in Shanghai, moved to Taiwan after the Chinese Communists invested the mainland, and the serene surroundings at the foot of Kuanyin Mountain were chosen for its new campus. The school's ample, verdant grounds hold both traditional and modern architected buildings, the newest of which was designed in 1968 by the Japanese architect Tangei in collaboration with the eminent Chinese architect C.C. Yang. It is particularly impressive, resembling with its clean, sharp lines, an ocean liner sailing on a sea of verdure. Also taking advantage of the serenity of Pali is a large, modern home for the aged. The senior citizens find the pastoral atmosphere restful and healthful. Mount Kuanyin, named after the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, has indeed bestowed many blessings upon the founders of Pali and those who followed them.